The world of cocktails is evolving, and the latest trend is a fiery, savory twist that's taking the industry by storm. Bartenders are no longer satisfied with the usual sweet and sour concoctions; they're experimenting with spices to create drinks that are both bold and intriguing. This shift in cocktail culture is a fascinating development, and it's worth exploring the reasons behind it and the impact it's having on the industry.
One of the key factors driving this trend is the desire to add complexity and depth to cocktails. Just as a chef might season a steak or pork chop with multiple layers of flavor, bartenders are now aiming to do the same with their creations. Turner Greaves, a bartender at New York's Sip and Guzzle, explains, 'The same way that you want to season a steak or a pork chop, you want to add multiple layers. And I think spice does that if you do it the right way.' This philosophy is evident in his creation, the Doctor Green, a tequila highball that combines tomatillo, green apple, shiso, horseradish, and serrano pepper for a super-herbaceous, vegetal, and slightly bitter experience. The spice dropper delivered with the drink allows customers to customize the heat level, making it a truly interactive and personalized experience.
This trend is not just about adding heat for the sake of it; it's about creating a unique sensory experience. James Stevenson, co-founder of Brutes of Mayfair in London, notes a significant shift in consumer tastes. 'I think there’s a real movement toward savory cocktails,' he says. His mezcal-based Bagheera is a prime example of this, with its turbo-spiced margarita profile. The drink is made by blending fresh chile and coriander, creating a fresh syrup that's then combined with tequila and lime. The rim is finished with a house-made tajin salt, adding an extra layer of flavor and texture.
The choice of agave-based spirits, such as tequila and mezcal, is no coincidence. Stevenson explains that these spirits have a fresher, more vegetal flavor profile that pairs well with spicy and savory notes. 'They’re just very akin to chiles,' he says. This natural kinship between spice and agave spirits makes them an ideal base for these new, bold cocktails. Alex Lyoness, bar manager at London's FlipDog, also uses a white tequila and Raicilla, an agave similar to mezcal, in his Late Night cocktail. The addition of soy sauce, a homemade chile tincture, and an onion and olive brine creates a deep, savory flavor with a hint of an after-hours kebab and pickles.
But chiles aren't the only way to add spice. Lyoness uses Sichuan peppercorns and the Timur berry, which has a cool, numbing quality, to create a 'tingling across the palate' effect. Greaves recommends bringing classic cooking techniques into cocktails, suggesting the addition of ginger, garlic cloves, star anise, and fennel to create a variety of peppery and spicy notes. However, he warns that the heat should be carefully judged, with the goal of creating a 'itchy sensation on the sides of your mouth' rather than overwhelming the drinker.
The art of balancing spice is a delicate one, and it's a skill that bartenders are honing to perfection. A good spicy drink should give you a subtle kick without being too overpowering. And, as Greaves points out, no two chiles are the same, so tasting, trying, and tweaking are essential to getting the right balance. Adding a spicy rim to your glass is an easy way to enhance the experience, with Anderson suggesting a mix of spices and rock salt, or even fruit powders like freeze-dried strawberry or raspberry, for a unique twist.
This trend in spicy cocktails is more than just a passing fad; it's a reflection of a broader shift in consumer preferences. The move away from sweet drinks towards savory, spicy creations is a fascinating development in the world of mixology. It's a trend that's not only adding heat to the cocktail scene but also a new level of complexity and creativity. As bartenders continue to push the boundaries of what's possible, the future of cocktails looks set to be a fiery, flavorful adventure.